Although coppicing and pollarding has similar methods, their processes obtain a different and useful purpose. If you fancy for a homegrown supply of plants that can produce or regenerate from the cut base or stool with plenty of shoots, then coppicing is the answer to your need.
Coppicing is the process of cutting down the shrubs and trees up to the ground level and allowing the stumps or shoots to regenerate from the base for years. Harvested thin shoots will produce larger and brighter stems or foliage while keeping a desirable height of a plant. Pruning should start during late winter or early spring when plants are dormant.
Once your trees or shrubs are coppiced, you have to maintain it annually or every three years. This is to prevent your trees from maturing and lengthen their lifespan as well. Pollarding is a similar technique, but the cuttings are higher up the trunk. Pollarding is cutting down young trees and shrubs from the main stem or its trunk. Pruning should start when late winter begins or early spring while plants are not actively growing. Pollarding controls the height of the plants or keeps its crown in check.
This method is ideally used in an urban setting to avoid trees from damaging utility lines or prevent tall trees from obstructing phone lines and other electrical wires planted along the streets. This is also made to maintain a desirable height for plants, reduces shade and define the shape of a plant. Coppicing and pollarding can have an ornamental purpose in the garden.
For example, dogwood and willow are coppiced in March to encourage bright stems. It is also possible to treat foxglove tree Paulownia tomentosa , Indian bean tree Catalpa bignoniodes and Judas tree Cercis siliquastrum as multi-stemmed shrubs by cutting them back each year. This produces super-sized leaves that look great at the back of a border. Again, carry out in late winter-early spring and the plant will quickly grow back to try and re-establish itself.
Do wait a year or two after planting before hard pruning like this. Cutting back to cm from the ground will give you a pollarded shrub and to cm will give you a coppiced shrub. Make clean cuts with secateurs, loppers or a pruning saw, depending on the thickness of the stems. Fertiliser or organic matter, applied in spring, will help things along. Older broadleaf trees can be felled to create a coppice stool, but it is not always successful.
Anyone who has tried to get rid of a sycamore will know that it is almost impossible to kill by cutting down to ground level, but your prized saucer magnolia might be another matter! Great little manual, thanks for sharing it! If you want to know there was another dimension for pollarding, it was the base of the iron production and naval industry.
I want bean poles. Kind regards, Nuruz. Hello Nuruz, Hazel Corylus avellana is probably the best option for quick bean poles. You can find out more details in our Privacy Policy. Important note about orders containing bare root plants Bare root trees and hedging are now available on the website for pre-order, but will only be ready for delivery from mid-November.
Guides Coppicing and Pollarding. History There is evidence of coppicing going back thousands of years. How to coppice Coppiced woods are usually divided into units, or coupes, which are cut on a cycle. How to pollard Pollarding involves cutting the tree at m from ground. Coppicing and pollarding in the garden Coppicing and pollarding can have an ornamental purpose in the garden.
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Low-maintenance creeping, hardy carpet Phlox is ideal for colourful, spring ground cover. Home Plants Coppicing and pollarding. Coppicing and pollarding are two related pruning techniques that can be used on various trees to create attractive effects. Coppicing hazel photo credit: Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. Cut stems of a pollarded shrub. When to coppice and pollard The best time to coppice and pollard is late winter or early spring.
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